Why I use WARM & NATURAL or WARM & WHITE cotton batting!

Happy Harper Quilts
www.happyharperquilts.com

Warm & Natural is the preferred batting among quilters world-wide!

The WARM Company

Warm & Natural is the finest needle-punched cotton batting! Only 15% of all cotton grown in the USA is the proper length, thickness and color. Out of this 15%, only 5% is clean enough for Warm & Natural! This soft, natural cotton has never been washed or bleached with harsh chemicals. It's kinder to the environment and kinder to your batting. The cotton undergoes a mechanical cleaning process removing all of the seeds, seed coats, along with the majority of leaf and stem remnants. The remaining tiny plant particles lend a special look to crafts like no other and won't harm your quilt.

Quilt or tie up to 10" apart! Quilt Warm & Natural right out of the package, as pre-washing is not necessary. Once quilted, machine wash and dry your finished quilt in cold water. 3% shrinkage can be expected in the first wash with cold water. To achieve an antique puckered look use warm water for 5% shrinkage. Warm & Natural won't distort when hanging, hooping or when used in quilt frames. It can be used for both batting and as an exterior craft fabric to create stuffed snowmen and rabbits.

The Warm Company is proud to purchase over 4 million pounds of American cotton annually for processing in our American manufacturing facilities by American workers for the American tradition of quilting shared around the world!

 

Happy Harper Quilts
www.happyharperquilts.com

Text source & credit:  The Warm Company at https://warmcompany.com/content/about-us

Best Sewing Machine For Beginners

Happy Harper Quilts

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So you are learning (or want to learn) sew/quilt.  Nice!  Welcome to the dark side!  Let me shed some light on which sewing machine you should invest in.  First of all, I have only owned two machines in my quilting lifetime, a Brother and a Janome.  Both are smaller, tabletop machines.  I have no street cred when it comes to recommending any other machine than the two I have used.  However, these people do:  Sewing Made Simple: Best Sewing Machines for Beginners.

Done reading the article?  Good.  Now, ... let's be real.  You understood NOTHING in the article. And let’s really be real.  You didn’t even read the whole thing! You skimmed. (Busted.)  So here is why you love me.  I am going to take the guesswork out of buying your first sewing machine. (You’re welcome.) If you are new to sewing, need a standard, good quality machine, and are on a budget, read (don’t skim) on.

When purchasing your first machine, I would recommend buying a machine with as many as these options/functions as possible:

1.      Automatic thread/bobbin winder

2.      Thread cutter

3.      At least 10-20 stitch options

4.      At least 5 other "feet" (A foot, Zipper Foot, etc.)

5.      Adjustable tension feature and stitch length

A great machine under $100 that includes all these features (and more) is the:

Brother XL2610 Free-Arm Sewing Machine with 25 Built-In Stitches and 59 Stitch Functions

Manufacturer description:  Brother's XL2610 is a 59 stitch function free arm sewing machine. The free arm feature allows you to sew cuffs or pant legs easily and convert the machine back to a flat bed sewing area for larger items. The machine features an automatic needle threader and built-in thread cutter to make setting up your machine easy. This model also has a built-in 4 step buttonholer with a stitch balance control to make it simple for you to make buttonholes on any garment. The XL2610 has a drop in bobbin system which is easy to thread and allows you to see the remaining bobbin thread. The built in stitches include quilting stitches, garment construction stitches, decorative sewing stitches, stretch stitches, and a blind hem stitch to make sewing hems a breeze. The accessories and feet included with the machine will help you with quilting, zipper insertion, darning, buttonholes and sewing on buttons. Sewing feet on the XL2610 feature Brother's quick change design. The XL2610 has a built-in stitch length and width control as well as a dial thread tension control so you can adjust your stitches as needed. The XL2610 is lightweight and portable with a built-in handle for easy carrying. The machine has a built-in light to illuminate the sewing area as well as a safety power and light switch. Instructions included with the XL2610 are bilingual in English and Spanish.

After much research, I found that this machine has everything you would need as a beginner, and would also be advanced enough to use for a long time. Plus, it is under $100, which is a great deal! 

Please note, I have not purchased this machine for myself. I was not paid anything to recommend this machine.  The goal of this article is to offer a little guidance and take the guesswork out of purchasing your first machine.  If you have a great beginner’s sewing machine, I would love to hear about it.  Please leave a comment for all to see and tell us which machine you have, it’s basic features, how much it cost you, and why you love it!

Happy quilting,

Angela
Happy Harper Quilts
www.happyharperquilts.com

Three Must-Have Quilt Notions That Will Make Your Life Easier

Happy Harper Quilts

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Here are three amazing quilting tools you should definitely invest in! They will save you time and frustration, making your quilting experience ever more lovely. :)

QUARTER-INCH FOOT 

Seriously, how do you not have one of these yet?  Seriously. This little puppy is the BEST invention for sewing machines, ever. 

This is what it looks like.  See that small black "guide" on the right side of the foot?  It allows for effortless quarter-inch seams all the time.  It makes piecing so easy, you could do it with your eyes closed, although I do not recommend that.

Tips:  Order by brand of machine if you can so the attachment fits perfectly. 

Cost:  Between $15-25 depending on whether you order online or buy in-store.

WALKING FOOT

This guy is the BEST ... errr ... second BEST invention for sewing machines, ever!  They are a little pricey (mine cost $50 for my Janome machine), but worth every penny!  This foot feeds your quilt sandwich through your machine in an evenly-paced fashion, making straight-line stitching a breeze.

Tips:  Order by brand of machine if you can so the attachment fits perfectly. 

Cost:  Between $40-60 depending on whether you order online or buy in-store.

And finally, little drummer boy drum roll please ...

SHAPE CUT RULER

Oh. My. Goodness!  This ruler is AMAZING!  If you cut strips for piecing, or borders, or binding, and want to do it in a fraction of the time with more consistency, this ruler is for you!  I love mine and use it all the time!  It is a great investment!

Tips:  There may be other brands/versions of this ruler, but I stick with what I know-Shape Cut!

Cost:  Between $25-30 depending on whether you order online or buy in-store.

I also think that the Olfa Rotating Cutting Mat is a must-have, but it is so awesome, it deserves it's own blog post! Stay tuned for more great tips and tricks from Happy Harper Quilts.

Happy quilting,
Angela

Happy Harper Quilts
www.happyharperquilts.com

T-Shirt Quilt Tips

Happy Harper Quilts

www.happyharperquilts.com

T-shirt quilts are a great way to preserve memories (and get rid of all those extra shirts taking up valuable space in your closet!!).  T-shirt Quilt Camps are available through Happy Harper Quilts.  Check the CAMP SCHEDULE for the next available class.

Here are a few tips before you get started with your first T-shirt quilt project:

Square Rulers

Do I really need one?

A square ruler is extremely helpful when squaring up your blocks.  You can do without, but you will be sorry, especially for t-shirt quilting! A clear square ruler like this one above helps you center your logo and cut consistent blocks out of all your shirts. If you do not want to splurge about $30 for the square ruler, I suggest making yourself a square template out of cardboard or a clear plastic of some sort to help with consistency.

What size should I buy?

Grab the appropriate size depending on shirt size. (e.g. if making a shirt for your teenage daughter that wears size small, go with 9 ½ x 9 ½ inch ruler (or 12 ½ by 12 ½, if the logos are large and take up the whole shirt). If you are making a quilt out of your dad’s XL shirts, you may need a 15 x 15!  Measure your largest logo and add an inch, is a good rule of thumb, for choosing which size ruler to purchase.

Where do I buy a square ruler?

You can purchase these rulers at retail stores or online.  Best prices are at: Wal-Mart, Hancock Fabrics (online), Amazon (online), and Hobby Lobby (with 40% off coupon App).  I bought mine online at jet.com for a ridiculously low price and free shipping and Promo code. 

 Fusible Interfacing

What is it?

Interfacing (sometimes called stabilizer) is a lightweight, paper-like material that is ironed on to the back of fabrics to make them more stable and easier to work with.  For t-shirts, it helps reinforce the shirts, which are stretchy and have a lot of give.  If you have not worked with fusible interfacing or stabilizer before, here is what I would recommend: Pellon 911FF Fusible Featherweight White (about $3.49/yard). 
When purchasing fusible interfacing remember:
1)  You want something that is not too flimsy, but not thick either. 
2)  Make sure it is "fusible", i.e. you can iron it on.
3)  Use a coupon if you are buying at a retail store!

How much to buy?

Formula:  Number of t-shirts times how many inches the t-shirt block will be (between 12-15 inches) divided by 36.
E.g. My t-shirt had 25, 15 inch shirts/blocks, so: 
(25x15)/36=10.416 yards.  So I bought 11 yards.

Where do I buy it?

You can find interfacing at local retail or craft stores.  I like to buy it “off the bolt” from Hobby Lobby or Hancock Fabrics and use my 40% off coupon (you can apply it to one “cut” of fabric or interfacing), so you will get 40% off all of it!  It ain’t cheap, so this is a great tip to help save money!  Mine for the above example cost me about $20.

 Washing T-shirts

Do I really need to wash my shirts before camp? 

No.  Not unless they are smelly, wrinkly, or you just really love doing laundry.  The point is to have clean, no-wrinkle shirts so that it is easier for you to square up and interface them!  The interfacing is in iron-on transfer, so the wrinkles will come out anyway when interfacing is applied.  But again, if your shirts have been crumpled up in storage since high school (me? Who me? No…), then wash ‘em up!

Types of Shirts

 Can I use my 1980’s cheerleading uniform in my quilt?

Um, . . . depends.  Many of us have shirts, uniforms, jerseys, etc. that are not cotton, and we would like to incorporate them into a t-shirt quilt.  I understand the sentiment.  I was a majorette (twirler, sans fire) in high school, and I have satin-y, sequin-y twirling uniforms that I could incorporate into a quilt!  (But, I did not).  Here is why:  Interfacing, cutting, and sewing heavy polyester cheerleading uniforms or satin dance uniforms (with sequins, no less) can prove challenging and requires extra patience. For my clients, I usually opt out of incorporating these items and instead suggest they find a different way to preserve them, like a shadow box.  It is not impossible to incorporate non-cotton clothing items, but make sure to really “study” the material before cutting up your favorite high school jersey or dance uniform.  If you think you can work with it with ease, I say go for it!

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A T-SHIRT QUILT PROJECT?  ASK ME!

Happy Quilting,

Angela
Happy Harper Quilts
www.happyharperquilts.com